Contrary to the title of the blog (kc-climbs), I am putting more than just climbs. I am putting weekend hobbies ... Climbs, hikes, Fun brew news, and other exciting or not so exciting excursions. I'm trying to organize trip reports, recipes, etc. on the right. Please leave comments as I love reading them!

Sunday, April 27, 2008

White Salmon Glacier (4/26/08; ski)

Ian had the weekend off to go celebrate his birthday and wanted to do something "big." We decided to attempt Shuksan via the White Salmon glacier. Late Friday afternoon Lucas and I loaded up the car and headed to Ian's. We made our introductions (I hadn't met Ian), loaded the car and were on our way. We arrived at the Mt Baker parking lot after they had closed the gate so we were resigned to the upper lot and it was there that we set up camp .... in the lot. After a 10 course meal, some beers, a birthday shot of whiskey, and a b-day piece of cake, we headed off for some shut eye. We woke up to the sounds of the cats taking off onto the ski hill and then dinked around packing up camp, giving way to a late start.

We took off from the upper lot, why we didn't just drive to the lower lot and park outside the gate, I don't know. Headed over to the white salmon glacier with a view of the objective in front of us. We started climbing (red) up the white salmon. We actually followed some skin tracks up a knoll to gain the white salmon a bit higher. In hind sight we should have gotten on the glacier below, more or less the same was we actually came down (green). After a rest on top of the knoll, we continuesd up and were almost immediately hit by the sun (there wasn't a cloud in the sky!). With conditions changing and a turnaround deadline looming, we made it up to the top of a little feature, had some lunch and started the descent before the sun baked the snow some more.

The skiing on the first part was just pure heaven. The snow was wind loaded 'powder,' up to a few feet deep. The pic (right) shows a group of 5 just to the right of our lunch spot with our tracks in the powder descending to the left. Just pure enjoyment. At the bottom of the glacier, the snow turned into avy debis that was covered by easily broken crusty crap. After struggling through this terrain we ended on the bottom of nice sun-softened snow, great spring skiing.

Even with the short-ish day it was beautiful terrain and skiing. I hadn't expected to summit with the unknown conditions, route, and our timing, but it was my 4th time on the mountain, all of which ended with a 'premature' turnaround. Hopefully in the next few weeks (or months?) I'll have a post with a picture taken from the summit! ... but what a beautiful day and incredible skiing!

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Wright Mountain (4/5/08)

Finally got back into the snow on the 5th. Lucas and I were going to do a longer overnighter .... something like an overnighter on Shuksan, but instead we hung out late Friday drinking beer and discussing life issues. After long weeks for both of us we decided to sleep in and go from there. So I woke up late, cooked a decent breakfast, and had a lazy morning. Finally we decided to go for a close overnighter and after packing and getting organized we were at the alpental parking lot at the bright and early time of 1:00 pm. We planned to go to someplace around snow lake for our little overnight excursion.

took the normal route - climb up to ridge, ski down to snow lake. Very nice! It had recently snowed and there was 4 inches of powder. We crossed snow lake and climbed to gem lake and decided to camp there. We climbed to a knoll to make sure we were out of any avy danger (it was supposed to snow some more). Of course this was annoying because the few times we left we skied down 50 feet on our skins and when we returned to camp we had to redon the skins and climb about 50 feet. We decided it was a fine trade off to make sure we wouldn't be buried by snow in the middle of the night.

Since neither one of us have built a snow cave we decided that it would be advantageous to try to make one, for future reference if we ever get into dire straights. 3 hours later, we were soaked and exhausted, but had a roomie cave with a slanted floor and a door that was a little too high. We called it good, and set out to get one short run in since we really hadn't done any skiing. We climbed to another knoll, that we named 7 o'clock knoll (it was 7:00 when we started climbing with light fading fast; chair peak pictured from the knoll in the fading light). Spectacular powder and a great run. Back at camp we had some dinner, whiskey, and called it a night... a very cold night since the cave was a tad spacious and the door let in a lot of cold air.

The next day we climbed Wright mountain. Pictured below is lucas arriving at the summit with the cave on the knoll just out of the picture to the right. We skied down into the drainage NW towards wildcat lake. With the extra 3-6 inches of snow while we slept, it was again superb. It was a great run (pretty long for the area) we had lunch on a nice opening, after which started up back to the ridge where we had lunch on our previous excursion out to this area. We climbed 7:00 knoll again because it was so much fun the previous evening and was right on our way back to camp. By this time there was a lot of accumulation and we were causing a lot of slabs to slide which sketched us out a tad. We packed up camp and cautiously descended to snow lake and then out to alpental. All in all, a successful outing with a few great runs, a first attempt at a snow cave, and a relaxed schedule.

Monday, March 10, 2008

Weekend of snow and exhaustion

So Saturday was a friend's b-day. The plan was to go to Hyak and have a decent nordic ski. We headed up with a late start and got some exercise in. It was a pretty chill day with beatiful skies. after some skiing around, we headed out to the yurt and arrived at about 3 in the afternoon. Soon people just started showing up with things big foot had stashed away for us. Part of the group and the "stash" pictured. Weather was warm, baking the snow and as we headed back it was already getting severely crusted over. It was a great day and a low key x-country ski - hopefully the birthday boy thought so too! I think that I totally suck at x-country skiing because I was exhausted on the ride back to Seattle in the evening, even moreso than climbing with a pack on. Back in Seattle the group met at a local brewpub and then Leny's, a local dive, to celebrate in another style.

So after 3 hours of sleep owing to daylight savings time, I was getting ready for a short bc excursion with Lucas. We were on our way early enough and were going skinning away from the alpental lot (actually me skinning and L taking his snowboard for a walk). We just decided to climb up the ridge to snow lake and go from there - needed to be a short day. It was great weather, but the snow left something to be desired. Hard crust early on. On the way to snow basin I got a quick shot of Chair peak and you can see the NE buttress route - 'hourglass' of snow heading straight up to the summit and the SE gully, the skinny snow filled gully just to the left of the large summit block, both of which we did last winter. After hitting the ridge, we headed into the snow lake basin and skied across the lake. On the left you can see L pushing taking his little pet for a walk across Snow lake. We then decided to climb the ridge on the other side because it looked "easy enough" and fun to ski. It was. We climbed up to the ridge and had a nice lunch on the ridgeline (Lucas pictured) and just skied back to lake (down to the right from pic). If we had to do it again we would have climbed closer to the peak behind L. It looked like a better climb and even better descent. Regardless, this was the best snow we found since I imagine it was protected from the sun and wasn't pure crust or pure sludge. afterwards we just retraced our steps and by the time we were skiing to source lake the sun had cooked the snow so we were skiing through the typical NW concrete. Back to the car by 1:45, early enough to dehydrate some more at rogue and then play soccer. With a lack of "drama" the past few times out, hopefully we've graduated so I can bring you some bigger and better TRs.... per my altimeter 2900' gain, 2850' loss, a good half day.

Monday, March 3, 2008

McClellan Butte

So Lucas and I decided a short, fun outing was best because of his need to defend .... well.... next Thursday! Well, we decided on skiing McClellan Butte. 5:00 came and I was rip roaring ... we needed an early start to get back for "work." So we parked just off the interstate and headed out. We had a "description" of what we wanted to do but the gist was: 1) drive I90. 2) get off at McClennan Butte exit. 3) Park at trail head. 4) climb with the NW shoulder as your destination. 5) ski down. 6) drink beer back close to Seattle. Well, I made (6) up, but it seemed fitting. At the trailhead, disoriented, we met some guys that pointed us in the right direction and in turn we gave them some tracks to get through the mid part of the mountain (they were post holing with boots the whole way)

So we headed up, me skinning on the skis (pic left) and lucas on snowshoes packing in his snowboard (bindings still in the shop; pic right). I didn't envy him. Per our descriptive guide, we accidentally started climbing a little too early. To our defense we wanted to try to hit the summit, whereas the NW route cliffs out 300 feet below the summit. mushy, wet condition turned into some newly felled powder on top of a crusty base. This soon turned into 6 inches and then 18 inches of powder! We got about 800 feet from the summit and things got pretty steep and sketchy for me and my skins. We tried to stay in the glades and boot it but with no pro and turnaround time coming we decided to dig a platform in the steep slope for a late lunch and turnaround (Pic from platform on left). While we wanted the summit, it was just time to hit the slopes that we had climbed. There was no sense tempting fate with the powder that lay below us.

After lunch Lucas started down on his snowboard ... it sounded like he was relieved to have it of his back. The first few pitches were tough, being steep and "warm ups" for both of us. but below them was pure powder. We had about 1500 feet of knee (+) deep powder to ski before hitting the wet slush through which we would have to navigate. All the way down both lucas and I were giddy giddy giddy. Even though we were cursing the hike up and what lay in front of us (in terms of the crap out), we both agreed that the fresh, untouched powder was worth it and so much more. Cursing the wet snow and wet snow bombs, we eventually made it back to the car exhausted... but loving every second of it. We twisted each other's arms to end up at Rogue Issaquah. We had a beer and were so hungary added some appetizers. 2 beers later we were cruising back to seattle .... lucas to work (L, how much did you accomplish?) and me to grab my stuff for a top division soccer game. It's a good thing I saved all that energy, yeah....

Thinking back on it, that was the best snow of the year, maybe ever. It was only one trip down but it was worth the energy. On the way back I almost drove off I90 looking at our lines ... and scheming on all the other possible lines out there.........

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Pilsner Mar 01, 08

So I promised my sis, Kari, that I would drive down to her wedding and bring a few kegs with me. So what to brew? The wedding will be in the summer so a pilsner is always a good thing to have at hand for all them other types that don't like a lot of flavor in their beer. Actually, a well done pils has a ton of flavor. Any suggestions for a good, interesting, wedding beer?

Also at the brewstore I paid 75 bucks for a sack of grain. This compares to 55 bucks the last time i went in. With our crop land being trashed, global warming/cooling, a huge demand for bio fuels (i.e. EtOH), and other blights, there is a massive shortage on certain crops (wheat, barley, hops, and the list keeps going). So I'll get off my soap box, suffice it to say though, that good brews are going to be getting ridiculously expensive. Oh yeah, and my original point to bring this up. I have a bunch of older Spalt hops that i don't know what to do. So I decided to try something new and feature them (well, almost, I couldn't get rid of Saaz - that's sacrilege) in the brew. If I were smart I would have done a side y side test, but I was lazy today.

So i decided to brew under the car port because of the inclement weather. After I saw the sun, I wished I had stayed up on the deck. Oh well. Turned out uneventful, good brew day. Here's the details:

10 gallon batch. Target OG 1.045 (tad low for a pils; assume 80% efficiency). Target HBU - Don't know .... just followed a prv recipe that turned out.

Water. Filtered with no additions
Yeast. I think wyeast 2206. I took the dregs from the primary of a previous batch on 1/26 and made a ~0.5 gallon starter about 30 hrs before pitching.
grains 15# german pils, 1.25# Vienna, 0.75 #crystal 10 degree
Hops. 4 oz Saaz 3.1%. 4Oz Spalt 4.1%

2Mash in to 124 for 30 min. Raise to 153 for 50 minutes (fluctuated between 145-155 but orig set was 153) . Raise to 170 for 10 minutes. Sparge with ~10 gallons hot water (Mash stayed at 170 throughout). Take about 14 gallons. Boil 60 minutes with following sched.
60 - 1 oz saaz 1 oz Spalt
30 - same
15 - same
5 - same + tea of irish moss.
0- knockout. Chill to 70 degrees. split to two primaries, aerate (filtered air) and pitch.

Actual OG - 1.053. Only took 9.5 gallons so Calc efficiency ~82%.

Picture on the right is during the sparge of my setup in the carport. after pitching there was activity within 24 (+) hours? very disappointing but there was noticeable activity Sunday evening... pictured left.

transfered 3/14 after 48 hr Diactyl rest at cellar temp. Gravity 1.015, which seems a tad high. Tasted nice and dandy. Will need to compare with my previous batch. Will leave at cellar temp before crashing it to see if it will ferment down any farther.

Friday, February 29, 2008

Saison Feb 22, 2008

So David, this one's for you. David and I were planning on brewing this together but his time in Seattle was cut short (for a job in SF) so we never got around to it, but we had the yeast that was special ordered. I've also wanted to try my luck at a saison, so now was the time. Base recipe from a friend of David's. All grain, 5 gallons.

Target OG 1.052 (I forgot to recalc based on my mash efficiency - that's a problem with recipes from others)

Water - Filtered, no additions.
Grains (assume 80% mash efficiency) - Extract conversion - substitute ~7 pounds (6 7/8) for pils malt. Steep malted wheat in water to 170 degrees. remove grains at 170 degrees and rinse, add malt extract.
8 # Belgian pils
1 # malted wheat
1# table sugar

Hops - ~35 IBU E Kent Golding + Spalt
Yeast - Wyeast 3711 (Fr. Saison). Made a starter 24 hours before pitching

Mash in with ~2.25 Gal water to 126 for 30 minutes (protein rest unnecessary). Heat to 153 for 45-60 min. Temp dropped into the mid 140's. Heat up to 170 for 10 min. Sparge with ~5 gallons. Take ~6.5 gallons.

Boil 60 minutes:
60 min (~21.4 IBU) 1.42 Oz E Kent Goldings (5.3%)
30 min (~9.2 IBU) 0.5 Oz E Kent Golding 0.5 Oz Spalt (4.1%)
8 min 0.5 Oz E Kent Goldings + Irish moss tea
3 minutes 0.25 t grains of paradise gently crushed with rolling pin and table sugar
0 min knockout, chill to 70 degrees.

Transfer to carboy, aerate with 'filtered air' and pitch. Gravity was 1.058 because volume low. Add liquor to 5.5 gallons for an OG of 1.054. Bubbles/activity by evening.

Calculated efficiency - 78%. 31 IBU

Transfered to 2 ary on 3/14. gravity at 1.003 (!!!). Is that normal? Tasted nice, clean, spicy, and aromatic. Now the only thing to decide is to crash it and keg it, or to bottle in champagne bottles?

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Snoqualmie Ski - Phantom Falls, Feb 2008

Fixed gear in hand, Lucas picked me up at 5:30 for another climb/ski. By 6:00 we were picking up Blythe (another partner in crime that tried to kill me in the trees at the resorts when I was getting back on the skis again). We ended up at the upper Alpental lot to climb/skin up Snoqualmie Mountain via a direct route - Phantom Falls, or a variation thereof. This was supposed to be a straight forward day to make sure my equipment was treating me ok after our previous trip.

Shortly after 7:00 we were skinning up the base of the mountain on a beautiful nearly blueberry day. We were in T-shirts almost to begin with, which would end up being a slight mistake later. Snow was of course rock solid at the start but all was fine without too much steepness. 10 minutes in, Blythe and I got stuck in a gully and booted it for about 100 feet, but besides that it was smooth going for the most part. So we ascended left up the SW face and then back right. I had indeed become one with my gear, was a bundle of energy, and "ran" in front of the group. We zig-zagged through forests finally arriving at more open areas (Lucas pictured on the left and Blythe with Rainier on the right). Here we tried to climb right to meet up the route from cave ridge. Unfortunately things got much steeper and hadn't softened very much in the morning sun. Upon trying to turn on a switch back I ended up slipping and taking a slide. Nothing major, except I skinned most of both of my forearms on the ice. I am starting to realize that we are all drama queens and we need some kind of mild drama on all of our trips. We righted the ship and kept climbing, about 1000 feet from the summit. We traversed right under some cliff bands, over others and finally met up with the Cave Ridge route about 200 feet below the summit. By this time, the snow was getting baked by the sun and softening up, promising to give us an enjoyable ski down in contrast to Lucas' and my previous trip. Unfortunately, while we skinned up, a pin in Lucas toe piece (binding) broke off. Don't know what or how, but he lost lateral stability reminiscent of my day last time out, although not as bad. Yes drama queens we are! Not to be outdone, Blythe also wanted in the drama queen action and one-upped my slide down, but just without the visible scars of mine. In the end Lucas decided to boot it the last 250 feet long with Blythe who joined me on the summit for a nice summit dance (left). Luckily we would find that that the binding issue was not going to be a major impact the descent with the heal clipped.

So after the brief pow wow at the windy, cold summit, we put away the skins and planned our way down. We skied down SE looking for an entrance to the bowls on the E face. We actually descended farther than needed but c'est la vie. Pictured (right) is our route down - summit just out of pic and Lucas' coming straight towards the camera. On the ridge and to the E the snow was quite soft and slushy. We skied down to a group of trees for some rest and lunch in a warm, protected area (left; in the background is Kendall peak - Monday's excursion). After that it was pure enjoyment (mostly) skiing the bowls down to cave ridge and beyond. Of course, we did have a tad of route finding issues through some cliff bands on the lower half of the mountain, but nothing that bad.

So it was a great ski with great people again. I finally got to get out hiking/climbing/BC with Blythe, a great addition to our drama queen group. Now it's Lucas' turn to figure out the gear issues and get his gear in working order.

The most amazing thing of the day is that when we got to the car I through my gloves on the roof of Lucas' car since he didn't unlock any doors (it's all his fault). I proceeded to leave them there and completely forget about them. When we dropped Blythe of at her house she surprisingly asked, "whose gloves are these?" wtf? We were going 75 mph for 45 minutes and not only one, but both gloves stuck to the roof! crazy ... and late that night after buying a lottery ticket .....
Here's what Lucas had to say.